Saturday, 10 April 2010


CHERRY PINK, A JAPANESE NATIONAL OBSESSION.

For the British, the arrival of any blossom heralds the arrival of Spring. In Japan, it’s all about the cherry.

The Brits are a nation obsessed with data - train times, the weather, bus timetables, but we pale into insignificance when compared to Japan. What other country in the world would have a national daily report on trees? Celebration of the arrival of this beautiful pink blossom is a wonderful cultural tradition, but it is so much more serious than that.

Before visiting Tokyo for the first time in March, I decided to monitor my chances of blossom viewing via the internet. I quickly realised its national importance by the amount of internet space dedicated to the phenomena. The more I read, the more I could not believe the obsession. There was talk of forecasters being deeply shamed for failing to predict the first day correctly; national apologies and much loss of face (Michael Fish, be thankful that you’re not Japanese).

Clement weather is as important as the blossom itself. Too strong a wind and it can all be over in hours. Individuals and company groups stake out their places under the best trees with large pieces of uniform blue tarpaulin at the first signs of the buds opening (and in some cases before). On my first visit to Ueno Park, it looked like the world’s largest tent city. Although on closer inspection, it was obvious that they were all far from down and out, sporting more designer labels between them than a Paris catwalk.

People arrive straight from work, still in suits and ties, kick off their shoes and sally forth onto a sea of blue tarp. Sitting with graceful elegance, they eat picnic or bento meals and drink copious amounts of Sapporo. Then, once the carousing is over, there’s the packing up. Even after large amounts of alcohol, it is still de rigour to clear up after yourself. All rubbish is neatly put away into the eco-friendly, segregated rubbish bins provided by the city.

Then everyone wends their way home - another sight for the unwary Gaijin (foreigner). Grey haired captains of industry weave up and down underground stations, more comic than threatening. Then the long sleep home, preferably leaning on the shoulder of the passenger sitting next to you on the underground.


Nothing like this exists in Britain - I have never seen anything come close, anywhere else in the world. It is as essentially as Japanese as Nissan. A “must see” sight for visitors to Japan and residents alike. It will draw you back time and time again - once seen, always smitten.

The “sakura zensen” (cherry blossom front) advances from the southern islands of Okinawa to the northern islands of Hokkaido from March to May

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